Confidências e Desabafos de Savarin (72)


Cinema e Gastronomia

The cook, the thief, his wife and her lover
- um filme para estômagos e nervos de aço inoxidável. Como pode calcular, quem não o viu, a partir de uma passagem da crítica de Daniel Rogov, ao referido filme, retirada desta interessante página sobre as relações entre arte, literatura, música, filmes e comida.

Even though the dishes prepared by the cook are impeccable in presentation and quality, Greenaway assures that not one dish will make itself appealing to those in the audience. Avocado in vinaigrette sauce with shrimps; truffled roast chickens; a salad of pike fillets with oysters; a rich potage a la Monglas - a creamy soup made with foie gras, truffles, and mushrooms and flavored with Madeira can all be enormously rewarding culinary experiences, but when accompanied by the farts, belches and vomiting of the crooks that sit at the table, one is hard pressed to think of any food, no matter how masterfully prepared, as being appetizing.

Even if it were not for the noxious company, this is not a restaurant to which most true gourmets would be attracted. Great cooking should be decorative but it should not be ostentatious. Nor should sophisticated modern dining involve great amounts of waste, overindulgence in too many rich and uncomplimentary courses that follow one after the other, or service that is so stilted and formal that it borders on groveling. Such vulgar displays have been banished from the table, as much for the sake of hygiene and good taste as for reasons of expediency.

There are some who claim that the most offensive moment of the film is the moment when the lover's body, spit roasted and garnished with cauliflower and turnips is served up as the single course in a special dinner prepared for the thief. From the moral point of view, this objection stands up badly, for in this film where excess is the rule, the eating of human flesh is no more offensive than eating dog excrement, urinating into a sauce, torturing a young boy or mutilating the face of a beautiful woman, all of which have their place in Greenaway's world. Culinary purists will argue, however, that spit roasting is not the ideal way to prepare human flesh. Those who have sampled this dish (including Guy du Maupassant, Marco Polo and Captain James Cook, who was eventually eaten himself) are in general agreement that the best means of cookery is by slow stewing in a peppery red wine marinade that contains juniper berries, marjoram, rosemary and plenty of onions.


Daniel Rogov

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